Staggering Portions of Barbecue at Bulldog

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Making room for Texan barbecue

Shanghai residents with a hankering for Texan-inspired cuisine now have a place to chow down at Bulldog Bar-B-Q, a simple, no-nonsense restaurant on Julu Lu.

Bulldog cuts through the fat with a lean menu of only three meats on offer: chicken, ribs and brisket. All meats are priced the same with small, medium and large portions for RMB45, RMB85 and RMB160, respectively. Alongside them are classic sides of grilled vegetables, fries, macaroni and cheese, creamed corn and salad, which are RMB15 for two with an order of meat or a la carte for RMB20.

Hunkering down in the rustic eatery, we were mildly disappointed by the fact that the meats here are not smoked, which are traditionally so in Texas. However, given the space they’re working with, it’s probably wise they didn’t try to squeeze a smoker in the kitchen.

Like a true Texan cut, the brisket has a nice meat-to-fat ratio and is served medium rare with crusted outer edges. It comes with sliced white bread, which begs for a slathering of tangy barbecue sauce.

The portion of pork rib is staggering and the meat falls off the bone effortlessly. We like tenderness in our meat, but when it comes to barbecue, we prefer the satisfaction of a little picking and gnawing on a bone. The flavor could be amped up, too.

There is little complaint from the sides—the thick cut fries are nicely done and the cream of corn is rich and sweet. Healthier sides include grilled vegetables and a salad of vinegar-based slaw with barley and apple. We’ll have to return for the macaroni and cheese, which was sold out when we arrived.

At these prices and with the current competition, Bulldog BBQ is set to do really well in this neighborhood. They also have a great happy hour deal and well-priced beers.

Address: 695 Julu Lu (near Xiangyang Bei Lu) 巨鹿路695号 (近襄阳北路)

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